I woke up this morning just before 6am to the sound of rain. As a result, it was much easier to stay in bed. Eventually I forced my old bones out of bed and into a hot shower that I could only hope would wash away my pain. We enjoyed a lovely breakfast and without my purse, I was forced to leave the room with bulging pockets full of fruit.
We were happy to have to pass through the old town of Siena once more to exit the city from the southern gate.
The street was familiar this time and we stopped for fruit to snack on as my pockets today weren't very big. We passed a small church and entered, impressed with it's beauty. As the heavy wooden door closed behind us I was amazed at how the noise of the busy town faded into a peaceful silence. We both took time to pray and then quietly let ourselves out.
We eventually made it to the southern gate and passed under the arches bidding farewell to Siena. The hills continued through suburbia and after only 30 minutes, we had to remove a layer. We were at a street corner peeling rapidly down to just t-shirts like two overheating, menopausal women while the locals walked in the full sun wearing down-filled puffy coats. We might as well wear a neon sign that screams 'tourist'. As we re-assembled our gear and got sorted, our new friend Paul came up right behind us.
He slept in the monastery last night and we compared notes on our time in Siena. We walked with him again but I still could only listen. He noted how strange it would seem if sound actually came out of my mouth since he would always remember me as the Pilgrim without a voice. Probably the only human in the world to make that observation. Like the previous day, Paul eventually ventured out ahead of us and we didn't see him again for the remainder of the day.
After a lovely stroll despite the hills, we came upon an industrial area and a garbage recycling center. Gone were the views of green rolling hills until we resurfaced again from the bowels of Siena. We followed a gravel path along a busy highway while our feet began to burn.
The gravel otherwise known as the 'meat grinder' was doing a little damage to us both. I have 3 blisters in the works and every step hurts. I was thinking of nothing more than coffee and a break from walking. The sun was out and shining down on us in full strength.
Far, far in the distance I could see a lone tree on the top of a green hill and I whispered to Jules that I hope the trail goes close to the tree as I imagined it would make a fabulous photo.
It was noon and we were running out of fuel already on what was supposed to be an easy day. Like a gift from God, we finally found a little place for coffee and a rest. It was still in a very industrial part of town and we were the only pilgrims.
It seemed to be popular with the blue collar crew today but I imagine in the summer it will be overwhelmed by many pilgrims seeking refuge from the heat.
After following a busy road for a bit we were directed by one of the many signs up a country lane that seemes to go up a hill with no end in sight.
As we climbed, I noted that we were, as I hoped, getting closer to the lone tree. We were surrounded by green hills and blue skies and it was prettier than you can imagine and more beautiful than I could express with words. Despite the gorgeous views we couldnt figure out why the trail would go up, then across and back down again. For me, every step was worth taking to get closer to the tree.
Just as we approached it the sign directed us back down even though the track we were on continued straight. We stopped at the cross road and Julie said, "I know you want to go see the tree and that's ok with me". Instantly I felt torn because yes, I wanted to get closer but I know how apprehensive Julie is about leaving my side and at this point we have not seperated. So I looked at a map and said, "come with me or follow the signs and I will take the next turn to meet up with you again at the bottom". She chose to stick to the path and I chose an adventure into the great unknown hills of Tuscany. I knew Jules would be fine. She knows what the signs look like. She knows where we are going and staying and she speaks Italian. I could also see her and the trail from the ridge up high so I wasn't worried.
As I crossed the green field towards the tree, I was beaming. I was excited and felt fearless, the crazy wind pushing against me.
The path finally crossed another lane with a house at the corner and my intention was to turn left and join up with Julie. Unfortunately there was a sign indicating private property and 'no access' with a set of large, barking dogs spitting venom at me through the fence. I kept going expecting to cross another lane.
Up ahead in a large field, two more massive dogs showed some interest and curiosity as I approached. They barked and ran along the barely there fence as I passed. Eventually to my side, the fence was down and I realized they are able to escape and I may be faced with death by dogs. Still I kept on and to my utter disappointment, the road came to an end, roped off and a firm warning posted.
I texted Julie and said "I have to turn back". And I did. Luckily I didn't have to go all the way back to the tree but I did have to pass the dogs again. They didn't seem to care so much the second time around.
Julie and I met up again and took a rest at a bench. I finally was able to remove my shoes and confessed my pain to Jules. My blisters are bad now and every step hurts. Julie, with her own aches and pains was eager to call it a day. Instead we just kept putting one foot in front of the other until we reached Monteroni D'Arbia. Our home is an apartment with a kitchen.
The owner lives upstairs and was extremely helpful with her welcoming instructions. Julie, although ready to collapse, talked with Carolina for what felt like forever. All I wanted was wine. So at the earliest opportunity, without being rude, I escaped to find supplies. The sun was still warm and I was still in a tshirt which was garnering way too much attention. Still I made it to a massive supermarket and bought essentials.
Wine
Pasta
Sauce
Salad
Soup
And cheese and meats for an appetizer.
I did it without my translator, with destroyed feet and no voice... still.
I not only survived the experience but I did well and was proud. I enjoyed not being in a restaurant. Julie washed the dishes after we ate and now it's time for bed.
A little adventure, lots of sunshine and fresh air, bellies full of food and grateful hearts makes the day complete.
Buona Notte x
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