Day 12 ~ 19 kms from Monteroni D'Arbia to Buonconvento

We made it another 19kms today to Buonconvento. 

It was a fairly easy day despite a few very steep climbs and a long, toe busting descent into town. The next 2 days are longer than previous days and with some challenging ascents. I think Jules is going to take a rest day. She really needs it. My body is very used to this kind of abuse and hers is not. She has been an absolute superstar and for those of you who know her, you know this is not her idea of fun. But through her physical suffering she has vowed to make some personal lifestyle changes upon her return home. She has enjoyed it, appreciated it and at times probably hated it. She wasn't a big fan of river crossings or the sloppy mud but she pushed herself and she conquered her fears every single time. I am very proud of her. This was way outside her comfort zone so what an opportunity for personal growth. She will likely never do this again but she can say she walked 225 kms up and over the hills of Tuscany like a champ.  

After 20 kms we are quite literally hobbling into town. It's hard to have fun when you are in significant pain. We both have blisters on our feet as the gravel paths have just pulverized them.  

We are getting a tremendous amount of sunshine and are beyond grateful for the blue skies. We have also met many very friendly and helpful locals. The pilgrims have been very few and far between. Definitely a great time of year to be a pilgrim or a tourist if you prefer your solitude and don't enjoy the crowds.

Today I got my voice back...mostly anyway, so time went by quickly as we walked and talked for the majority of the day. We had a nice picnic in a park at about the half way mark with all the left over supplies from my trip to the supermarket yesterday. 

After resting for a bit, we moved on to a nearby coffee shop for our 2nd cappuccino of the day and a bathroom break.

We tried to make sense of why our path had to constantly climb up and go across and back down when the road would be direct and much flatter and faster. The reality is that the roads are dangerous. There are no sidewalks and barely a shoulder. It's noisy and who wants that on a peaceful journey? Not me. Besides, the physical challenge of every climb builds character and confidence. Today we were faced with a very steep climb and Julie's initial reaction was "f that". 

She saw the road and we both knew it was going to the same town as we were. She wanted to take it but we both agreed it wasn't safe. So a few big moans and she was back in action. When the hill became too steep, I gave her the end of my walking stick (I named him Luigi) and pulled her up. She protested at first but quickly realized that it really does help to use someone else's momentum to gather speed and the strength to get to the top.

How we managed to laugh during this physical challenge and still summit is beyond me. I stopped to recover and guzzle some water as Julie kept going. I heard a strange noise and looked behind me on the ridge and saw a tornado of leaves spin almost as high as the tallest tree. It was like a dance, a celebration of nature and it was a beautiful sight. 

We still had 4 kms to go and after following the ridge for a little while,  the remainder of distance was downhill on a long and winding road. 

It is amazing that neither of us has lost a toenail yet. Regardless, our feet are in fact destroyed.

We are going to seperate tomorrow. Julie is going to enjoy this beautiful property in this small historic town of Buonconvento and I am going to walk. We will share breakfast at 0730 and then I will leave her. My goal is to set a quick pace and use my music to keep me moving. She has access to a quick and easy bus ride from here to our next town and it will be an opportunity for me to get lost in my thoughts for a day or two. I'm sure we will have stories to share with each other over dinner when I get there. I just hope my feet will hold up...it could be as many as 27 kms tomorrow although I'm hoping it ends up being less.. more like 24 kms. That's my breaking point. Anything beyond that is simply painful.

There will for sure be some climbing and what goes up.... must come down. 

We are currently waiting for the restaurants to open here at 730pm. The view from our room looks like a compilation of memories and good times passed.

Until dinner, when I hope to leave my own bottle at the wall of fame, we will be listening to the church bells directly beside our room chime every 15 minutes.

I can only pray that they stop ringing when we go to sleep tonight or the Pope is going to hear about it when I get to Rome.

Ciao xx