Day 13 ~ 25kms Buonconvento to San Quirico D'Orcia

 I started my cold walk this morning walking into the sun  and saw many mothers taking their children to school. It was only 5ﾟ and the grass was covered in a thick frost. I pulled my sleeves down to cover my fingers in an attempt to keep them warm. The sun had yet to surface from behind the hills and I was not wearing a warm enough coat. My ears were numb and starting to hurt. I tackled the trail at a brisk pace in an effort to warm up. The trail ran behind some industrial buildings and a farm as I reached the edge of the city limits. 

The trail reduced itself to a single track along side the main road until veering left up a country lane to a winery. 

 I climbed a hill lined with trees eager to distance myself from the sounds of traffic. Julie chose to take the day off in Buonconvento and meet up with me in the next town. Still walking at a great pace, my head was in the clouds and I was in the vineyards... where I belong. Not far along on the ridge, I met Stefano and Wiski.

We met before, somewhere after San Miniato. Stefano is a retired police officer and I am his new English teacher. Although his english is not perfect, we communicate well and are able to laugh and understand eachothers humour. He has really good energy and loves his dog.  We walked together and  eventually came to the town of Torreneiri. 

We walked through town but most everything was closed. Just before reaching the town limits, we found a place to get my first coffee of the day. Close behind, following us was Ariana from Germany. A young and friendly pilgrim from an island of only 800 people. She was sweet and kind. Together we walked, the three of us plus Wiski, until we found a pilgrim rest stop with tree trunks to sit upon and snack. Ariana decided to linger and have her lunch. We bid her farewell and continued on our journey.

Stefano has been training with Wiski so that the two of them can hike in June to Santiago. 

Although he spoke quite well, I taught him some new words. He was quite entertained by my very selective knowledge of Italian swear words. They came in handy when a car sped past us dangerously close, kicking up the dust. I even threw in an Italian hand gesture and we laughed about it for a while afterwards.

Stefano's van was parked a couple of kms from town so after walking a beautiful day together, he reached his vehicle and we said goodbye. But first.... he gifted me a bottle of red wine from Sardinia and I promised to visit there someday. Every day there have been signs telling me to go to Sardinia so it's now even higher on my list.

I arrived in San Quirico by a long staircase that led directly to an old church in the heart of the old town. 

The town was so typically quaint with stone roads and narrow lanes. The old stone buildings lining the street had plants by each old wooden door and tiny window. There were lanes with archways connecting streets that became more narrow until I reached the edge of the town.

 Like most towns here, it was perched high on a hilltop with a view of the Tuscan hills for as far as the eye could see. 10 steps behind me was my home for the night. 

Julie had arrived just before me and had gained access by following instructions that were sent to us earlier in the day. I texted her that I had arrived and reminded her that the owner Andrea was meeting us at 4 pm for check-in.

Julie texted me and said, "I can't get out" so I laughed and said, "What do you mean??" She told me she had tried everything. She swiped her key card,  she pushed and pulled and she was trapped. So using the code from the outside, I opened the door to free her. Then we changed positions and she waited outside while I tried to escape but couldn't. So Julie now rescued me and we sat on a bench catching up and left the door ajar. Enjoying the view beside us was a couple from, of all places, Toronto. Julie was chatting with them while  I shoveled my lunch in my mouth. I didn't  stop to eat while I was on the trail so I arrived famished.

Andrea arrived but instead of being a little dark haired Italian woman, Andrea turned out to be a tall, dark, handsome young man. Not what I was expecting as we had only previously communicated through text but oooo la la, what a nice surprise.

Our home for the night had a spectacular view and once again was a great place. This one had a loft but my old Camino legs were not going to be climbing ladders during our short stay.  Julie's legs apparently have a mind of their own. I was in the bathroom under the stairs and I could here her muttering to herself "well that was smart, now how am I going to get down?"

We enjoyed our wine from Stefano and relaxed before dinner. 

It was a cold night so we went to the closest restaurant.  It was a tiny place with an authentic Tuscan menu and a fireplace burning in the corner. It was almost perfect. The room was very quiet and although my voice is slowly returning, I was content to whisper. Julie and I shared lots of laughs over a fantastic meal and delicious wine and then hobbled back to our place in the cold and dark night.

A good sleep was needed for the following day, our last and longest day walking yet.

Ciao!