Day 8.
Buongiorno. This morning I woke up before 6am and with the shades open I saw a sky full of colour. I jumped up and stepped out onto the little balcony barefoot. I watched the sun come up with the pigeons cooing while the rest of San Gimignano slept. After a few minutes my feet were numb from the cold tiles but at this point that's a really good thing.
The breakfast was not included today but that's OK because I have no appetite in the morning. I just need coffee to get the old engine started. Julie was keen on breakfast so of course we went together. When we arrived I acknowledged that it was quite a nice spread. The restaurant had a view of the valley and the town and we were the only ones there. They insisted they could accommodate my gluten free needs but still I was stubborn and declined. All it took was seeing a bowl of canned peaches and I caved. I had Italian yogurt which is excellent if you ever get the chance to try it. Next I had some ham, cheese, and tomatoes. Then I found an entire section dedicated to gluten free items. Cereal. Buns. Cookies and fruit everywhere. I had a cappuccino and still no heart. My coffee looked like it had a Justin Bieber haircut so I gave it eyes to amuse myself.
We had our fill of breakfast and were prepping to leave. So I opened my bag and in went an apple, an orange and a banana. Followed by 2 hard boiled eggs, a bag of granola and 2 gluten free buns. My bag was a bottomless pit. I looked down at it and suddenly I looked like I was carrying a small child. I went in there not even hungry and left there with enough food to feed a small army. Julie and I couldn't stop laughing.
So I said to her, "let me carry your jacket" and we attempted to leave the buffet in stealth mode. Our abs are just as sore as our legs from the giggle fits that seem to be a regular thing. How does one go from not being hungry to an all you can eat breakfast buffet?
We gathered our things and easily found the path. We walked on a paved road leaving the city. Luckily Julie discovered a trail of caterpillars on the road marching to their death, one at a time.
So I began searching for a stick or something similar to save them but couldn't so I picked them up with a piece of paper from my purse. I scooped them up and dropped them into the grass
Everyone deserves a chance to become a butterfly
Julie was feeling the pain catching up to her today.We laughed so much from her post vacation plans that she shared with me. The list is as follows:
Joint replacements (both hips and knees)
Home care
Psyche consult
Toe amputation
Spine adjustment
Long term care
Physio
and possible funeral arrangements.
Just as we finished laughing about her possibilities a Jogger ran past us. I said, "Some people do this for fun". And she replied with "Ya but he's not carrying the weight of the world". So I suggested, "maybe you should have had him pack for you!!"
Just then we turned off the main road and on to a country lane that took us the majority of the way to the next town. As we descended Julie said, "by the end of this trip I'm going to be nothing but a torso with a 6 pack". Of course we erupted in laughter. Walking behind her, I imagined her legs wearing down and her knuckles scraping the ground. The visuals and jokes kept coming until I stopped to take a picture and she moved on putting some space between us.
It was a lovely walk with the trail meandering through quiet forests. What we didn't expect were the river crossings. The first one was just a few steps. Perfectly spaced rocks for 3 steps. Julie stopped and said, "wtf is this??" She contemplated her next move as I urged her across. In my mind I imagined a chariot and handsome Romans coming to carry her across. I think that might have been what she hoped for too. Instead a young man came up behind her and swiftly passed her with a hop, skip and a jump and told her to take her time. At this point two locals on the hill had gathered to watch. Eventually and with much urging, she successfully crossed and we all cheered. Sadly the moment of glory was short lived as she was faced with a giant climb. We made it up and around a vineyard and another stream that was an effortless jump across.
We just happened upon a house in the woods with a porch full of tables, a garden of herbs and a big, old boxer rolling in the grass.
There were signs advertising, coffee and snacks and was all being overseen by an Italian gentleman named Salvatore.
His home was called Casa della Spezia. Home of the spices. He was a chef and lived there alone providing a rest stop for pilgrims. He was a friendly and funny man. We enjoyed 2 coffees and he brought out cookies and dates. The dog was named Sonny and he was an old doggo but still had character. It was a great rest but Colle Val D'Elsa was calling.
We walked on and after turning a few bends we were stopped again by a river. This one was no puddle. This took searching and navigating the correct rocks and footing.
I knew my plan was to quickly dart across them but I knew Julie would need another plan. I took my gaiters out of my backpack and adjusted them to fit on Julie's feet. Their purpose is to keep the water out of her boots. Our boots are waterproof so I kept telling her, it's only water. Neither of us wanted to fall in or get hurt but I knew the worst case scenario was likely just getting a soaker. Once ready I darted across the rocks first. I tried to make it look easy so Julie would stop over thinking it. I told her she could run across the flat center with her boots on and likely not get too wet. Or she could take off her socks and shoes and just carefully walk to the other side. I'm fairly certain that was the least pleasant option for her with mud waiting on the otherside. It took much coercing and words of encouragement. Rather than film her I was on the edge ready to grab her and pull her across if necessary. She took one step, steadied herself on the first rock and then bolted across with such momentum that she reached the land and face planted.
She held on to a tree for her dear life as if there was a 10 foot drop behind her and simply lay there on the mud. We were both laughing and she allowed the picture before I helped her get back on her feet. It may not have been her most graceful moment but it was certainly glorious!
We laughed and she muttered about how they should have built something there or at least put a couple of 2x4's to make it easier. After another few bends in the path we came to the fork in the path that we were waiting for. Right to keep going to Monteriggioni or left to Colle val D'Elsa. Left was another 4kms. Right was another 15kms. We went left.
As we passed a rest area with cement benches Julie said, "See... they had time to make a fucking bench!!" Hahaha
It was a long path still to town and one final climb up. The last few kms always kicks your ass. We snacked as we strolled at super slow speed which gave us some energy for the homestretch. As we entered city limits an Ambulance sped by us with sirens blaring and behind me I could hear Julie saying softly and with desperation "right here, right here" but still they passed us and Julie dug deep making it through the castle walls, under the arch and a short hobble to our home for the night. As we entered the Hotel, I could hear her softly whisper, "oh thank God".
Our hotel was beautiful and our host very friendly. When we entered our room... I went straight to the shower and Julie went horizontal. I gathered up the laundry and snuck out while Jules napped. There is no way I would make her walk another step.
I carried a giant bag full of both our dirty clothes and walked a kilometer down a steep hill away from the historic town and into the downtown centre of Colle Val D'Elsa. I found a laundromat and paid 9 € for wash and dry. While it was washing I went to the Farmacia and bought some drugs for this nasty cold. Despite feeling like crap I am proud of myself for communicating my needs without Julie to translate. Imagine me trying to use charades to explain decongestant and antihistamine. It was top notch entertainment and I was successful. I retrieved our clothes and carried them back a kilometer now up the steep climb but this time in the dark.
It was a Friday night so the streets were busy. I made it back safe and happy to have clean clothes again. Julie and I roamed the town trying to find the right place to eat. Most of the Restaurants were fancy schmancy and we weren't feeling it. So we kept searching and found a spot just outside the old castle town walls. It was very busy with locals and we decided that was a good sign. Despite the service that was not the most attentive, we ate well and the food was great. Of course this head cold had me dreaming of my bed, homemade soup and soft tissues but instead I settled for the soft sounds of Julie snoring, a stolen roll of toilet paper and the warmth of a comfy bed at the Palazzo Pacini.
Buona Notte xx
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