Sunday, March 19, 2023

Day 3 ~ Gina's Birthday in Lucca

Sleep came easy last night after a full day of walking all over Florence. But the morning still came too soon. 
We met Lucy at 0845, packed up and ready to go, we made our way to the train station. Just enough time for a coffee and a morning snack. 
Sadly we had to part with Lucy. She was heading north back home near Milan and Julie and I, west to Lucca. The girls shared their last embrace and we said arrivederci. Lucy was lovely and a joy to be with. She will be missed.
Our train left only minutes after Lucy's train and should arrive by 1130am. It's a cool rainy morning here in Tuscany and I'm grateful to be comfortable and dry on this slow train.
Yesterday was such a busy day and it really was perfect. Although I wrote last night until 1am, there was so much more to share with you. I left out the Fontana del Porcellino in the centre of town. A sculpture of a pig that is rumored to bring luck to those who rub his snout and stick money in his mouth. Sadly, I saw a woman with a paper cup in hand shamelesly collecting the coins as they fell from the pig. I'm guessing her only source of income. Though the crowd was large surrounding "The Porcellino", Julie got her hands in there for some good luck.
As beautiful as Florence was, we were there on a beautiful sunny and very busy Saturday. I am quite happy to be heading to a smaller town with smaller crowds and some open spaces.
Lucca is a small town that claims to have an estimated 100 churches. It is surrounded by a 4 km wall that I hope we can walk along side in better weather tomorrow morning. 
The train took just over an hour and was quick and painless. The foggy skies made the visibility poor. Little did I know that was about to change. I had already put on my backpack's rain cover but noticed Julie had not. She told me hers was tucked in a zipper pocket at the bottom of her bag so I pulled her under the train station roof to prep her and her bag before stepping into the rain.
Standing with our backpacks on, I stepped behind her and unzipped the pocket and stuck my hand up inside it. I felt a piece of it and as we struggled I told her I felt like her Obstetrician and was helping her give birth. Julie says, "is it breech?" Our giggles turned to hardy, uncontrollable laughter as the unborn raincover started to crown.
In the final moments, it just slid out with ease.  I took one look at this blinding neon, orange pack cover and said,  "What the....?" Then I burst into endless laughter that I couldn't even speak through... and I said to Jules "there is no way I'm EVER going to lose you".....
She responded with more hardy laughter as I continued with a barrage of comments making fun of her now glowing backpack. At this point we are both doubled over in a train station parking lot, in the rain, laughing hysterically. Who needs sunshine? We've got Julie. We can even hike at night.... without flashlights.
The best part is even now, as I write, we are still laughing until it hurts as we relive today's shenanigans. 
We walked a part of the trail alongside the stone wall that surrounds the town until we found a tunnel and some stairs to enter. 
We walked only 50 steps or so into Lucca before I decided I was in love. The stone lanes glistened from the rain that lightly fell and locals and visitors alike strolled the streets with their colourful umbrellas. 
We stopped for a cappuccino lungo and waited for our room to be ready. I suggested Julie give her bag a name for the journey and without much thought she came up with Orangina. 'Gina' for short. Fitting in every way.
We crossed the little town easily and found our place next to a massive church. 
We had to climb a couple flights of stairs to our new home but we were welcomed by the very friendly Manuel into our new communal kitchen. It's 10pm and we have yet to see anyone else. We chatted with our host for a while and he gave us instructions for the property then showed us to our beautiful room. Our window overlooks the church and quiet lane below.  
It is comfortable and very clean and decorated beautifully. Updated decor with subtle style, contrasting the rustic wooden beams of our sloped roof. It's perfect. We both agree on a 10 star review.
It was early yet so we dropped our bags in the corner of the room and went to explore.
We saw 2 churches (not sure where the other 98 went hahaha) before my stomach started to grumble. I had to remind Julie at 2pm that I still had not eaten (a miracle in my opinion) and I convinced her that it was in her best interest to feed me. 
We passed through a tunnel lured in by the authentic sounds of the accordian being played by a much older, ruggedly handsome Italian musician. 
Something about him made me curious about his back story. I was so grateful he allowed me to photograph him. As I think back now, I wish I had asked him his name. 
We made it quickly to the main Piazza Anfiteatro and settled in quickly at a table outside of a restaurant that offered an extensive gluten free menu. The food was so incredible. We each ordered a soup to warm our cold bodies and followed with a gluten free pizza with mushrooms, artichokes and topped with arugula. Then we shared a bowl of risotto with porcini mushrooms and asparagus. No surprise it was all accompanied with a half litre of red wine.
We loved the atmosphere of our surroundings, we talked and laughed and in the background was our friend and his accordion. It was perfect, rain and all.
We bought a small umbrella for 5€ and walked up and down all the streets with our arms linked staying dry.
I waited outside the shops taking pictures while Julie popped in the stores for girlie stuff like shoes and make up. I laughed as I stood out in the rain with all the husband's waiting on their wives.
Until there was..... Alessandro. I was lured into a shop by beautiful, unique, leather handbags and greeted by the owner's son. Unfortunately, handsome Alessandro was not for sale.
The one that caught my eye was shaped like a camera and another like a guitar. 
That one also had a built in Bluetooth speaker. Unfortunately the cost was almost 400€ per little bag. The shop was beautiful (as was Alessandro hahaha). 
It's true, the Italians are very easy on the eyes. 

On our way back home we stumbled upon church number three.
We had to compose ourselves before entering because we were again doubled over laughing about things only two middle aged women could possibly understand or laugh at. Without saying anymore about it (trust me) just know, that if this kind of laughter continues, Julie and I are going to each have rock hard abs by the time we head home.
After church, we went to a little grocer directly across from our place and bought wine and snacks. Our big, late lunch was more than enough and with continuous rain, we opted to head in early.
It's time for sleep. 
Tomorrow we begin our walk with a short day and all we can hope for is a little sunshine and happy feet.
Buona Notte xx

1 comment:

  1. Hi Can you tell me where you stayed in Lucca
    Cathy
    PS Those sweet delicacies looked divine

    ReplyDelete

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