Day 14 ~ 23 kms San Quirico D'Orcia to Bagni San Fillipo

I woke up to a beautiful sunrise today. It was subtle and turned the sky into shades of peach while the morning fog blanketed the hills. As I prepared for the day, Julie woke up, stared at the ceiling and said, "I want to walk today" I was happy to hear those words and a little grin of satisfaction was difficult for my face to hide. Our 'pack up to leave' routine is quite effortless although I have either lost or forgotten something everyday. We walked through the old town in search of coffee but nothing was open. We eventually found an interesting place in the newer, much younger section of town. I vowed to return to this town someday and explore every little lane. We each had a much needed cappuccino and Julie bought a pizza lunch and water for later. It was unfortunately a late start for such a long day. We walked along a busy street to leave the city in search of the white road to Rome. Behind us I heard a familiar voice call out, "Hey Luigi!". It was Stefano and Wiski. He caught up to us and we began our walk. After a bend in the road, the asphalt disappeared and the road turned to gravel.

 Together we tackled our first big climb of the day. I walked ahead since Julie and Stefano were talking in Italian again. From behind us came a pilgrim from Holland that we had met briefly the day before. He was very tall and big. His English was excellent so as a result we had a nice chat to distract us from the big climb. My little legs worked double time to match his giant strides. His name was Marajn (in Dutch) or Marino (in Italian) which translates to 'Sailor' . With his accent and voice, he sounded exactly like "Joust" from Amsterdam in the movie "The Way". If you haven't seen the movie, please do. Perhaps it will inspire you to walk your own Camino.

The white road crested in a little hamlet called Bagno Vignoni Alto. 

An ancient village with a friendly dog to greet us. He became friends with Wiski and walked with us a short while. 

The view from the top, as the sun was shining on all of Tuscany, was incredible.

It was a very steep, toe busting and knee busting shuffle down to the bottom.

 There, waiting for us, was a river to cross. I pointed out a pedestrian bridge before Julie could push the panic button.

Unfortunately, the bridge was closed. We had to back track and take the very busy and dangerous road over the river and then all the way back up another mountain. We were all running out of fuel so as soon as we reached near the top, we stopped for a picnic. Stefano decided this was as good a time as any, to say goodbye and return back to where he parked his van. 

We would not see him again as he had a boat to catch back to Sardinia and this was actually goodbye.

After snacking, we left the road for a farm track and we were gifted incredible views.

Although we had already climbed for what seemed like forever, there was more climbing ahead.

We passed a farm and chatted briefly with a farmer. He reassured us that the climbing would continue for only a small section but it  would soon level out. He was right. The farm track turned to gravel and it went on forever with no end in sight.

The scenery was stunning. The green hills and blue skies with the contrast of the white roads was enough to have me smiling. I let my hair down and enjoyed the spring breeze and though my feet are blistered and raw, I felt joy. Pure joy and freedom and success. 

We had walked 20 kms and still had 11 more to go at least. It was already late in the afternoon and I knew we wouldn't complete the trail that we had originally planned. It was time to make a new plan. We weren't out of fuel but I knew we soon would be. We came to a crossroad. Do we walk into the unknown for what would likely be a long,  slow painful walk and potentially arrive close to dark OR veer off course by less than a km and take a taxi at least a portion of the way. We had 2 destinations to choose from. Straight to our next hotel or to the hot springs and then find a way from there. We called a taxi and were told it would be an hour to wait and would cost 60 euros. We both thought the price was obscene considering it's only to travel 10kms. So we walked down to a town called Gallina.

Julie found out that a bus was coming in 10 mins and would pass through Bagni San Filippo. Problem solved. We canceled the taxi without any protest. The bus cost 5€ for 2 and was a short ride up a winding road. We found the access road easily on foot.

It was a steep descent to the hot springs but it was worth the extra effort to get there. The sulphur smell of egg was noticeable but surprisingly tolerable. The rocks were white and the water was  a beautiful shade of pale blue.

 There were many people enjoying the baths but without being prepared, we chose not to get wet. We still had 7kms or more to walk to get to our new home. We really didn't want to walk anymore and Julie was ready to hitch a ride. Instead we called our accomodations and asked if they had a service for hire to pick us up. Without hesitation the owner said "no problem, I will send my brother". Within minutes Max, our hero showed up. Max was tanned and tattoed in a skull cap and jeans. He was gorgeous and I thought to myself, "Is this a mirage? Have I had too much sun??" Turns out his heritage is Russian and Korean...now toss in a little Italian and wow... delisioso 🤣

The drive from the baths to our property was insane, switchbacks at an intense incline and Julie and I both agreed we would have died for sure. It would have been a half days walk. Asphalt roads without a shoulder, twisting and turning down from the baths and then back up again. We approached a metal security gate and as it slowly opened I thought, ooooooo fancy schmancy. We are staying at an agroturismo property. It is a working farm and everything is grown here and made fresh.

Our room is gorgeous with a fireplace ready to burn with the strike of a match and a crazy beautiful tub.

Julie tested out the tub first and though it looks gorgeous, its tough to navigate and shower without a curtain. I was having wine and writing in the other room, being completely entertained by the sounds of Julie trying to manoever in and out without slipping. I'm fairly certain her legs are still struggling to do what her brain tells them to. I've seen this phenomenon happen at river crossings or while she is shoe-tying when she just sort of gets stuck. 

So I could hear her swooshing around, and I heard the word "Ow" alot and mixed in was her sort of laughing and cursing at the same time. And then she said, "I'm stuck and I probably shouldn't have locked the door" So of course I'm dying laughing knowing she is clearly in a compromising position and may need rescue.

She managed to save herself and eventually it was my turn. Far less eventful although I did manage to spray water everywhere as the shower head got away from me. I had a hot and therapeutic bath and no one was harmed. 

We are the only ones here and we are getting VIP service. 

We had already agreed to a set menu for dinner and were greeted by Marina, Max's sister and the creator of this paradise. A 300 year old farm that she renovated into an Agriturismo Resort. 

The dining room we shared with 3 adorable dogs was warmed by a wood fire and I picked a fabulous wine from Montalcino. 

We had a 4 course meal followed by shots (Julie had 3 hahaha) and an amazing conversation with our Hostess Marina. She is such an inspiration and this place is a gem. What an enriching experience this has been. 

I lit the fire before bed and fell asleep by its warmth listening to it crackle. 

A part of me is ready to go home to my fam and seeing those dogs made me miss my Jake SO MUCH. Another part of me is ready to move on to Rome or at least be brought in on a horse drawn carriage. My feet really are a mess BUT a few days spent on this farm with might be enough to convince me to actually walk to Rome instead. 

We all know if I had more time I'd walk right into Rome. You can walk anywhere if you just have the time.

Next time... and there for sure will be a next time.

Tomorrow is a travel day but I will probably have something to share about the day 

Til then,

Ciao x

Day 13 ~ 25kms Buonconvento to San Quirico D'Orcia

 I started my cold walk this morning walking into the sun  and saw many mothers taking their children to school. It was only 5ﾟ and the grass was covered in a thick frost. I pulled my sleeves down to cover my fingers in an attempt to keep them warm. The sun had yet to surface from behind the hills and I was not wearing a warm enough coat. My ears were numb and starting to hurt. I tackled the trail at a brisk pace in an effort to warm up. The trail ran behind some industrial buildings and a farm as I reached the edge of the city limits. 

The trail reduced itself to a single track along side the main road until veering left up a country lane to a winery. 

 I climbed a hill lined with trees eager to distance myself from the sounds of traffic. Julie chose to take the day off in Buonconvento and meet up with me in the next town. Still walking at a great pace, my head was in the clouds and I was in the vineyards... where I belong. Not far along on the ridge, I met Stefano and Wiski.

We met before, somewhere after San Miniato. Stefano is a retired police officer and I am his new English teacher. Although his english is not perfect, we communicate well and are able to laugh and understand eachothers humour. He has really good energy and loves his dog.  We walked together and  eventually came to the town of Torreneiri. 

We walked through town but most everything was closed. Just before reaching the town limits, we found a place to get my first coffee of the day. Close behind, following us was Ariana from Germany. A young and friendly pilgrim from an island of only 800 people. She was sweet and kind. Together we walked, the three of us plus Wiski, until we found a pilgrim rest stop with tree trunks to sit upon and snack. Ariana decided to linger and have her lunch. We bid her farewell and continued on our journey.

Stefano has been training with Wiski so that the two of them can hike in June to Santiago. 

Although he spoke quite well, I taught him some new words. He was quite entertained by my very selective knowledge of Italian swear words. They came in handy when a car sped past us dangerously close, kicking up the dust. I even threw in an Italian hand gesture and we laughed about it for a while afterwards.

Stefano's van was parked a couple of kms from town so after walking a beautiful day together, he reached his vehicle and we said goodbye. But first.... he gifted me a bottle of red wine from Sardinia and I promised to visit there someday. Every day there have been signs telling me to go to Sardinia so it's now even higher on my list.

I arrived in San Quirico by a long staircase that led directly to an old church in the heart of the old town. 

The town was so typically quaint with stone roads and narrow lanes. The old stone buildings lining the street had plants by each old wooden door and tiny window. There were lanes with archways connecting streets that became more narrow until I reached the edge of the town.

 Like most towns here, it was perched high on a hilltop with a view of the Tuscan hills for as far as the eye could see. 10 steps behind me was my home for the night. 

Julie had arrived just before me and had gained access by following instructions that were sent to us earlier in the day. I texted her that I had arrived and reminded her that the owner Andrea was meeting us at 4 pm for check-in.

Julie texted me and said, "I can't get out" so I laughed and said, "What do you mean??" She told me she had tried everything. She swiped her key card,  she pushed and pulled and she was trapped. So using the code from the outside, I opened the door to free her. Then we changed positions and she waited outside while I tried to escape but couldn't. So Julie now rescued me and we sat on a bench catching up and left the door ajar. Enjoying the view beside us was a couple from, of all places, Toronto. Julie was chatting with them while  I shoveled my lunch in my mouth. I didn't  stop to eat while I was on the trail so I arrived famished.

Andrea arrived but instead of being a little dark haired Italian woman, Andrea turned out to be a tall, dark, handsome young man. Not what I was expecting as we had only previously communicated through text but oooo la la, what a nice surprise.

Our home for the night had a spectacular view and once again was a great place. This one had a loft but my old Camino legs were not going to be climbing ladders during our short stay.  Julie's legs apparently have a mind of their own. I was in the bathroom under the stairs and I could here her muttering to herself "well that was smart, now how am I going to get down?"

We enjoyed our wine from Stefano and relaxed before dinner. 

It was a cold night so we went to the closest restaurant.  It was a tiny place with an authentic Tuscan menu and a fireplace burning in the corner. It was almost perfect. The room was very quiet and although my voice is slowly returning, I was content to whisper. Julie and I shared lots of laughs over a fantastic meal and delicious wine and then hobbled back to our place in the cold and dark night.

A good sleep was needed for the following day, our last and longest day walking yet.

Ciao!

Day 12 ~ 19 kms from Monteroni D'Arbia to Buonconvento

We made it another 19kms today to Buonconvento. 

It was a fairly easy day despite a few very steep climbs and a long, toe busting descent into town. The next 2 days are longer than previous days and with some challenging ascents. I think Jules is going to take a rest day. She really needs it. My body is very used to this kind of abuse and hers is not. She has been an absolute superstar and for those of you who know her, you know this is not her idea of fun. But through her physical suffering she has vowed to make some personal lifestyle changes upon her return home. She has enjoyed it, appreciated it and at times probably hated it. She wasn't a big fan of river crossings or the sloppy mud but she pushed herself and she conquered her fears every single time. I am very proud of her. This was way outside her comfort zone so what an opportunity for personal growth. She will likely never do this again but she can say she walked 225 kms up and over the hills of Tuscany like a champ.  

After 20 kms we are quite literally hobbling into town. It's hard to have fun when you are in significant pain. We both have blisters on our feet as the gravel paths have just pulverized them.  

We are getting a tremendous amount of sunshine and are beyond grateful for the blue skies. We have also met many very friendly and helpful locals. The pilgrims have been very few and far between. Definitely a great time of year to be a pilgrim or a tourist if you prefer your solitude and don't enjoy the crowds.

Today I got my voice back...mostly anyway, so time went by quickly as we walked and talked for the majority of the day. We had a nice picnic in a park at about the half way mark with all the left over supplies from my trip to the supermarket yesterday. 

After resting for a bit, we moved on to a nearby coffee shop for our 2nd cappuccino of the day and a bathroom break.

We tried to make sense of why our path had to constantly climb up and go across and back down when the road would be direct and much flatter and faster. The reality is that the roads are dangerous. There are no sidewalks and barely a shoulder. It's noisy and who wants that on a peaceful journey? Not me. Besides, the physical challenge of every climb builds character and confidence. Today we were faced with a very steep climb and Julie's initial reaction was "f that". 

She saw the road and we both knew it was going to the same town as we were. She wanted to take it but we both agreed it wasn't safe. So a few big moans and she was back in action. When the hill became too steep, I gave her the end of my walking stick (I named him Luigi) and pulled her up. She protested at first but quickly realized that it really does help to use someone else's momentum to gather speed and the strength to get to the top.

How we managed to laugh during this physical challenge and still summit is beyond me. I stopped to recover and guzzle some water as Julie kept going. I heard a strange noise and looked behind me on the ridge and saw a tornado of leaves spin almost as high as the tallest tree. It was like a dance, a celebration of nature and it was a beautiful sight. 

We still had 4 kms to go and after following the ridge for a little while,  the remainder of distance was downhill on a long and winding road. 

It is amazing that neither of us has lost a toenail yet. Regardless, our feet are in fact destroyed.

We are going to seperate tomorrow. Julie is going to enjoy this beautiful property in this small historic town of Buonconvento and I am going to walk. We will share breakfast at 0730 and then I will leave her. My goal is to set a quick pace and use my music to keep me moving. She has access to a quick and easy bus ride from here to our next town and it will be an opportunity for me to get lost in my thoughts for a day or two. I'm sure we will have stories to share with each other over dinner when I get there. I just hope my feet will hold up...it could be as many as 27 kms tomorrow although I'm hoping it ends up being less.. more like 24 kms. That's my breaking point. Anything beyond that is simply painful.

There will for sure be some climbing and what goes up.... must come down. 

We are currently waiting for the restaurants to open here at 730pm. The view from our room looks like a compilation of memories and good times passed.

Until dinner, when I hope to leave my own bottle at the wall of fame, we will be listening to the church bells directly beside our room chime every 15 minutes.

I can only pray that they stop ringing when we go to sleep tonight or the Pope is going to hear about it when I get to Rome.

Ciao xx

Day 11 25kms from Siena to Monteroni D'Arbia - The Tree of Life

I woke up this morning just before 6am to the sound of rain. As a result, it was much easier to stay in bed. Eventually I forced my old bones out of bed and into a hot shower that I could only hope would wash away my pain. We enjoyed a lovely breakfast and without my purse, I was forced to leave the room with bulging pockets full of fruit. 

We were happy to have to pass through the old town of Siena once more to exit the city from the southern gate.

The street was familiar this time and we stopped for fruit to snack on as my pockets today weren't very big. We passed a small church and entered, impressed with it's beauty. As the heavy wooden door closed behind us I was amazed at how the noise of the busy town faded into a peaceful silence. We both took time to pray and then quietly let ourselves out. 

We eventually made it to the southern gate and passed under the arches bidding farewell to Siena. The hills continued through suburbia and after only 30 minutes, we had to remove a layer. We were at a street corner peeling rapidly down to just t-shirts like two overheating, menopausal women while the locals walked in the full sun wearing down-filled puffy coats. We might as well wear a neon sign that screams 'tourist'. As we re-assembled our gear and got sorted, our new friend Paul came up right behind us.

He slept in the monastery last night and we compared notes on our time in Siena. We walked with him again but I still could only listen. He noted how strange it would seem if sound actually came out of my mouth since he would always remember me as the Pilgrim without a voice. Probably the only human in the world to make that observation.  Like the previous day, Paul eventually ventured out ahead of us and we didn't see him again for the remainder of the day.

After a lovely stroll despite the hills, we came upon an industrial area and a garbage recycling center. Gone were the views of green rolling hills until we resurfaced again from the bowels of Siena. We followed a gravel path along a busy highway while our feet began to burn. 

The gravel otherwise known as the 'meat grinder' was doing a little damage to us both. I have 3 blisters in the works and every step hurts. I was thinking of nothing more than coffee and a break from walking. The sun was out and shining down on us in full strength. 

Far, far in the distance I could see a lone tree on the top of a green hill and I whispered to Jules that I hope the trail goes close to the tree as I imagined it would make a fabulous photo.

It was noon and we were running out of fuel already on what was supposed to be an easy day. Like a gift from God, we finally found a little place for coffee and a rest. It was still in a very industrial part of town and we were the only pilgrims. 

It seemed to be popular with the blue collar crew today but I imagine in the summer it will be overwhelmed by many pilgrims seeking refuge from the heat. 

After following a busy road for a bit we were directed by one of the many signs up a country lane that seemes to go up a hill with no end in sight. 

As we climbed, I noted that we were, as I hoped, getting closer to the lone tree. We were surrounded by green hills and blue skies and it was prettier than you can imagine and more beautiful than I could express with words. Despite the gorgeous views we couldnt figure out why the trail would go up, then across and back down again. For me, every step was worth taking to get closer to the tree. 

Just as we approached it the sign directed us back down even though the track we were on continued straight. We stopped at the cross road and Julie said, "I know you want to go see the tree and that's ok with me". Instantly I felt torn because yes, I wanted to get closer but I know how apprehensive Julie is about leaving my side and at this point we have not seperated. So I looked at a map and said, "come with me or follow the signs and I will take the next turn to meet up with you again at the bottom". She chose to stick to the path and I chose an adventure into the great unknown hills of Tuscany. I knew Jules would be fine. She knows what the signs look like. She knows where we are going and staying and she speaks Italian. I could also see her and the trail from the ridge up high so I wasn't worried. 

As I crossed the green field towards the tree, I was beaming. I was excited and felt fearless, the crazy wind pushing against me. 

The tree had a cross mounted next to it and a growing pile of stones at the bottom. After snapping countless photos, I carried on the same lane. The road seemed to lead to nowhere. I felt like I was dropped into the Microsoft windows wallpaper.

The path finally crossed another lane with a house at the corner and my intention was to turn left and join up with Julie. Unfortunately there was a sign indicating private property and 'no access' with a set of large, barking dogs spitting venom at me through the fence. I kept going expecting to cross another lane. 

Up ahead in a large field, two more massive dogs showed some interest and curiosity as I approached. They barked and ran along the barely there fence as I passed. Eventually to my side, the fence was down and I realized they are able to escape and I may be faced with death by dogs. Still I kept on and to my utter disappointment, the road came to an end, roped off and a firm warning posted.

I texted Julie and said "I have to turn back". And I did. Luckily I didn't have to go all the way back to the tree but I did have to pass the dogs again. They didn't seem to care so much the second time around.

Julie and I met up again and took a rest at a bench. I finally was able to remove my shoes and confessed my pain to Jules. My blisters are bad now and every step hurts. Julie, with her own aches and pains was eager to call it a day. Instead we just kept putting one foot in front of the other until we reached Monteroni D'Arbia. Our home is an apartment with a kitchen. 

The owner lives upstairs and was extremely helpful with her welcoming instructions. Julie, although ready to collapse, talked with Carolina for what felt like forever. All I wanted was wine. So at the earliest opportunity, without being rude, I escaped to find supplies. The sun was still warm and I was still in a tshirt which was garnering way too much attention. Still I made it to a massive supermarket and bought essentials. 

Wine

Pasta

Sauce

Salad

Soup

And cheese and meats for an appetizer.

I did it without my translator, with destroyed feet and no voice... still.

I not only survived the experience but I did well and was proud. I enjoyed not being in a restaurant. Julie washed the dishes after we ate and now it's time for bed. 

A little adventure, lots of sunshine and fresh air, bellies full of food and grateful hearts makes the day complete.

Buona Notte x